Salt and pepper each quails on all sides, as well as inside cavity. Stuff each quail with a piece of orange. Place half slices of bacon across breast area. Truss with butcher's twine so the main cavity is closed and the bacon slices are secure.

In a heavy frying pan, sauté the slab bacon pieces, celery and carrot together in 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat, until soft and slightly browned. Remove and place in a roasting pan. Add the quails to the frying pan, 3 at a time, adding approx. 2 tbsp oil, searing and turning until nicely browned on all sides (approx. 7 minutes). Repeat with remaining 3 quails .

Place the quails side by side in the roasting pan, on top of the sauteed bacon, celery and carrot. Roast in preheated 350 F oven for approx. 20 minutes or until done.

Once the quails are ready, remove to a hot plate and keep warm. Deglaze the roasting pan with hot water and then discard the bacon, carrot and celery pieces.

In the frying pan used to sear the quails, reheat a bit of butter over medium-high heat with the remaining pan drippings. When hot, add 1 tbsp flour and mix well, stirring a few minutes until cooked. Add the roasting pan liquid, stirring constantly, and then the white wine. Reduce slightly and then add the grapes. Heat through. Top with the parsley.

To serve the quails, cut off the legs and then separate the breasts from the breastplate, using a sharp knife. Place the breasts, skijn side up on the plate, side by side with the legs. Add grape sauce to taste.

Serves 4 (allow 1½ quails per person).

Suggested accompaniment: Kohlrabi à la "Suisse" and couscous with sun-dried tomatoes (see separate recipes)